I tried out using the 19mm collet but the little thin disc fell right through. So in tightened the nut and carefully put in the roller till it started gripping. The problem using this method of holding is, I'm not sure how to hold it such that the working surface is perpendicular to the spindle. Further, I'll have problem with those pieces that have the blue plastic ring on their parameter.

Looks to me that holding the rollers via the centre hole is the way to go.

If anyone has any suggestion, please comment. Thank you.

He bought some blanks and would like to have them machines tongue design he wants. We chatted thru Carousell and migrated to Whatsapps with pix flowing to and fro. Based on what was told to me, i put them into 3D models.

But I find the spokes too thin at 1mm. So I reduced the number of spokes to 6 instead.

The trial in making the wheels started on Saturday and Sunday for a couple of hours each day.  Some pix were taken but I didn't have the time to update the blog till now.  Just returned from the A&E of Changi General Hospital which we spent the last 4 plus hours waiting for the doctor to administer treatment to my poor little Ruth.  Her fever went back up Monday night and she started bleeding from her left nose.  We panic and drove her straight to A&E after midnight.  The wait was rather long with more time spent waiting for the result of her blood test to be out.

Ruth is such a brave girl.  Despite the pain and discomfort, she allowed the doctor to draw blood from her without once pulling back her arm.  I'm so proud of her!

As I was to send our helper to the airport in about 2 hours time for her trip back to Myanmar, I gave up the idea of sleeping - and so this blog entry.

Terrace provided me with a length of delrin of about 28.6mm diameter.  I felt bad as it will be such a waste of the expensive plastic as the final diameter of the wheels will only be 15mm.  He explained that it was meant for another project of his which didn't happen and so using it for this purpose - felt so much better after learning this.

On with the pix.  

The next ops is to turn the chamfers on each side of the wheel so that it seats nicely in the slot of the aluminium extrusion.  The plan is to cut all the 18 pieces needed for the mini kossel and turn a shaft to hold them each at a time.  I've yet to think of how to turn the chamfers accurately for it to balance itself in the slot like the cross section pix below.

I'll figure that out when I feel better.  A little under the weather myself...

Be blessed!

I continued with the work on the Base and completed it over 2 sessions of about 2 hours each.  I took it very slowly when milling the other slot with a 10mm slot drill due to the vibration and loud noise.  The feel on the handwheel while feeding didn't feel smooth at all.  This may be caused by the ER16 spindle chuck I'm using which extended the tool out quite a bit.  I didn't have that problem when using the Sherline's endmill holder but the largest holder I've from Sherline is 3/8"...  Some rectification was done to the Slide's slot as one side is tapered.  The 2 components now fit nicely together and the sliding one against the other is smooth.  4 more parts to complete before I can call this done.

Moving over to the start. The more I use the mill, the more confident I get in getting to the spot I want using the handwheels. The right limit of the slot was set with the tool maker's clamp on the right of the job against the saddle.

Moving to the left limit and setting the clamp.

Milling the 1/4" slot with the Sherline 1/4" slot drill. The Sherline's endmill holder in use here.

Slot done.

The 10mm slot drill in the ER16 collet chuck was employed to cut the counterbore slot. To set the depth, I plunge the slot drill to the depth of 1/4" and fit another piece of the toolmaker's clamp on the column bed.

Slot done. I went at 0.25mm per pass to minimise vibration. The cap screw sit flush with the top surface of the Base.

The centre hole enlarged to 6.4mm to tap 5/16" BSF.

Testing fit. No side wobbling encountered. I'm pretty pleased :)

The instruction calls for the 2 x 2BA holes to be done on the drill press.  I was running out of time to set up the drill press (its under the bench...) and so stand the part in the vise and carry on.

Locating the side and dialed to the centre of the workpiece.

Centre drill and drill through with a 4mm. I'm at the limit of the z travel...

A piece of card stock used at the back to check if I'm right in the middle. Not too bad..

The part was then flipped over to drill and tap the other 2BA hole on the other side.  This completes the work on the Base.

View from the back where the 2MT Arbor will be screwed in from.

The front. I'm wondering if the screws are a little too long. The drawing shows them as almost flushed with the surface. Can those who did this confirm if I need to shorten the screws?

The rest of the work will be mostly done in the lathe.  From the plan, I'm left with making the 2 adjustment screws, the Centre, and the 2MT Arbor.

I'm hoping to get back to the shop real soon!

Blessings to ALL!!!

The Set-Over Centre is the 2nd kit I bought from Hemingway Kit. The first was the knurling tool which I've not the confident to start working on. Maybe after a few simpler projects I'll start my attempt.

Like most of the little projects I did, I've the drawings drawn on my notebook as 3D models so that I can visualise how things fit together. The raw materials were cleaned up and cut to size to prepare for marking.

Enough of writing. Time for pics...

I'll work on the Base in my next session in the shop. One question which I would like to ask. The 2MT arbor needs to be machined and thread 5/16" BSF. I'm scratching my head thinking through how I should be holding the arbor. The Proxxon lathe has a 3MT in the spindle. My Sherline lathe has 1MT. Do I hold it between centre?